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Tuesday, December 3, 2024

Private Water Systems: Types, Design and Construction, Disinfection, Sampling and Testing, Treatment, Operation, and Maintenance


     The majority of private water systems consist of wells drilled into groundwater aquifers. Springs, cisterns, and ponds are other kinds of private water systems. Wells and springs tap groundwater. Ponds tap rainwater runoff. Cisterns tap and capture rainwater.

     Generally speaking, groundwater closest to the surface or in contact with the surface or surface waters is more likely to be polluted. That is one reason why groundwater wells are required to be cased to a certain minimum depth, usually 15-25 ft. A distance between surface waters and drinking water aquifers is desirable in that the water is naturally purified and filtered as it moves downward through soil and rock, the more filtration and time, the cleaner the water becomes. There are many examples of surface water contaminating shallow groundwater.

     The graphic below shows some groundwater geology variations and how aquifers are often tapped.

 





     The next graphic is a (composite) schematic of a typical private water well.

 

 

 



 

Well Design and Construction

 

     In many states well permitting, inspections, and examination and verification of well data from well logs and well completion reports are done by local and county health departments with assistance from the state health department and the Dept. of Natural Resources (DNR). The DNR keeps up the state water well database and stores the logs and completions as do the health departments.

     Wells must be cased below a certain depth, and the grout or cement used to seal the well off from adjacent rock must be of a certain concentration in terms of weight per gallon of water. We had a calculation sheet to determine this. Correct piping, pumps, pressure tanks, and backflow prevention, are verified in an inspection. Since grout should go to the surface it can be verified by probing.

     Well logs and completion reports should be accurate and complete. Well logs include formations encountered, depth of casing(s), casing sizes, where water was encountered, how much grout and water or cement and water were used in mixing a slurry, and how the grout or slurry was added to the hole. The logs and completion reports also act as official state records filed by state permit number. GPS coordinates and site information, well production pump tests, sustainable yields (in gals/min), pump make and model, pump setting depth, whether there are screens, shale baskets, or any other added features of the well, and other pertinent information are given on these two reports.

     Most drilling in my area is via rotary drilling but there are other types of drilling rigs, pounded wells, and dug wells, but those last two are becoming less and less common.

       

 




 


Water Disinfection and Testing

     Private water systems are typically tested for coliform bacteria and E. coli. They may be also be tested with test strips to screen for the presence of nitrates and nitrites. Nitrate and nitrites, though rarely present, can indicate groundwater contact with animal manure or fertilizer. Positive tests are most common in agricultural areas and levels vary by season. If it is a new well, it is common to disinfect it with a flush of chlorine and/or vinegar. Following sufficient contact time with the disinfecting agent, it is considered to be important to then remove all the chlorine from the system before testing the well for the target bacteria. This is in order to get the most accurate test results for the presence of the bacteria. The cutoff for coliform bacteria is 4.2 MPN. The presence of coliform bacteria is not in itself dangerous but its presence makes it more likely that dangerous forms of bacteria will be present as well. Disinfection is usually done by the well driller after the well is completed. They add chlorine at a sufficient concentration based on hole size and depth. There is a simple way to calculate this. Then they flush the system with elevated chlorine levels. Then the system is flushed for a long period of time. Ideally, it should be flushed until it is free of chlorine for 24 hours, but this is not always practical. If the sample comes back too high in coliform bacteria, a deeper disinfection is done, and the water is re-tested. A deeper disinfection may include cleaning the walls of the well casing or even digging up water lines and re-laying them if bacteria in the pipe is suspected.

     Coliform bacteria can access the system in a number of ways including its presence in soil where soil may have gotten into the well and/or the pipes. It can also form on water taps. States may require a dedicated sample tap to test the water. This is usually in the basement on the consumer side of the pressure tank. The water should be run at least until the pressure tank kicks on so that any stale water inside can be pumped out. Water sitting in the tank for a long period could allow bacteria to grow. The tap is disinfected with chlorine at sufficient concentration, with 70% isopropyl alcohol, or with a flame. The water tester should also avoid touching the sample lid interior, breathing on the sample, etc. to avoid contaminating the sample.

     It is often recommended that home well water and other private water systems be tested once a year or at least once every five years. However, this is often not done at all. Nowadays, there are home water testing services like Tap Score where you can order a test kit, take your own water sample, and send it to a lab for analysis. Otherwise, local health departments can test the water and send it to a lab for analysis.

     Older wells may be in need of maintenance or may be in need of decommissioning due to contamination. In some areas steel casing used in older wells may corrode, allowing metal fragments to enter the water. That could be dangerous. Most wells these days use plastic casing that does not corrode. According to the Family Handyman wells are commonly contaminated by:

·        Man-made contaminants from agriculture, mines and industry;

·        Natural contaminants like arsenic, heavy metals, fluoride and radioactive substances;

·        Microorganisms, especially if your well is older or the casing is damaged;

·        Depth, since shallow wells don't naturally filter water as well;

·        Contaminants from old plumbing, like lead and copper pipes.

     Almost one-fourth of private wells contain elevated levels of at least one contaminant, according to a U.S. Geological Survey study. Family Handyman also has a list of contaminants commonly tested for in sample analysis:

·        Bacteria, including coliform and E. coli (some health departments also offer free coliform * tests)

·        Nitrate and nitrite, which are often from agriculture;

·        Heavy metals like lead, arsenic, copper and total (or hexavalent) chromium;

·        Fluoride, which is unhealthy at higher levels;

·        General chemistry, including hard water, pH, alkalinity, total dissolved solids, turbidity, grains per gallon and conductivity.

If you can afford it, it's also good to test for:

·        Forever chemicals (PFAS), volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and other industrial wastes;

·        Radioactive particles like radium and uranium;

·        Pesticides and herbicides.

 

 

Water Hardness and Water Softeners

     Well water may be high in dissolved minerals in ionic form such as magnesium and calcium. Magnesium and calcium can create hard water. These wells may require a water softer to make the water more palatable and less damaging to systems. Hard water, although generally safe to drink, can impede the actions of soap, shampoos, and laundry detergents, and leave deposits and ‘rings’ on cooking equipment and containers. Hard water can also shorten the lifetime of water heaters and plumbing fixtures. Some water testing kits test for water hardness. According to Home Depot:

A level of 1 grain per gallon (gpg) or higher technically indicates some water hardness, but 7 gpg often indicates that a water softener may be needed at your home.”

A water softening system should be chosen based on expected water use in gallons per day. The most common type of water softener is an ion exchange system. Home Depot explains how ion exchange water softeners work:

  • Water softeners work by filtering hard water through a mineral tank. The tank contains a bed of plastic beads or resin beads that have negative electrical charge. The negative charge of the water softener resin attracts the positive charge of such “hard” particles as calcium and magnesium, leaving them on the beads and removing them from the water.
  • Over time, the water softener runs a regeneration cycle to clear the hardness particles from the beads. The unit’s control valve sends a mixture of salt and water from the brine tank into the resin bed. The salt attracts the minerals from the beads, and the excess debris is flushed from the system and down the drain.
  • Regeneration cycles occur at least once a week, but often more. The frequency of regeneration cycles depends on numerous factors, including how hard your water is and how much water you use. The harder the water and the more water used, the more frequent regeneration cycles will need to be. Regeneration cycles use about 50 gallons of water on average, but this will depend on the water softener system. Unless you have a dual-tank water softener, the equipment cannot be used during the regeneration cycle.
  • Resin beads usually do not need to be replaced. They can typically last the entire lifespan of the water softener system, but may need replacing every 10-15 years or so. However, to maintain your water softening effectiveness, periodically refill the brine tank with water softener salt.

There are also dual tank systems that keep water available during regeneration and salt-free systems.

 

 








Water Purification Systems That Provide Continuous Disinfection

     Some wells may be contaminated enough to require water purification systems. If after multiple deep disinfections, a good water sample cannot be obtained, then the system owner can opt for a water treatment/purification system. These are also known as continuous disinfection systems. They may be required for well water, spring water, cistern water, and water from ponds or streams, and can be used for treated public water as well. These involve a UV light to kill off bacteria and other microorganisms and filtration. They work best with clear water since it allows the light through better. There are Class A and Class B systems. In some situations, Class A systems may be required to meet state codes for continuous disinfection. Shown below are how UV disinfection works and the ANSI/NSF 55 Class A and B requirements for water purification systems. They come from a blog by John Woodard of Fresh Water Systems.

 

 







Springs, Ponds, Cisterns, and other Water Sources

     Many people rely on these unconventional private water sources. We got calls about developing springs and ponds. The first step there is to get the water tested. Most springs require some disinfection with chlorine, but ponds may require more disinfection and have specific requirements regarding their relative position to runoff. I once relied on water from a cistern that was filled regularly with public water trucked in. We needed no disinfection system because it was public water and likely would not have needed it in that state.

 

 

Water Well Maintenance


      Wells should be visually inspected from time to time, noting anything broken or breached so that surface water of soil could contact the water.

“NGWA {National Ground Water Association} recommends homeowners hire a licensed well contractor to inspect systems every year to check the pump's capacity/flow, valves, electrical conductance/motor and the well's water levels. However, WSC {Water Systems Council} recommends only doing this every five years, as long as there is no concern with the well.”

If your water pressure has dropped, contractors can also check for pump wear and mineral buildup inside the pump casing. "Over the years, this will give insight on water levels, quality and quantity, plus provide some forward vision as to when you might experience a pump failure," says Traut.

If you hear clunking, your well pump runs constantly or your water pressure becomes low, it could be a sign that there's not enough air pressure in the tank.”

Replacing a pump in a water well can cost $1000 to $2500 plus labor. Drilling a new water well varies by depth, region, and geology, but recent costs can be above $20,000. The life of a water well is estimated at 20-50 years. The life of a pressure tank can vary based on water composition and quality, but the range is 5 to 30 years.

 

Smart Water Systems

     A more recent development is digitally controlled smart water systems. Smart water systems can detect leaks and make any water system function optimally.

A smart water system is a modern and innovative solution that combines technology and water management to prevent leaks, save money, and promote water conservation. It typically consists of a network of sensors and devices that monitor water usage, detect leaks, and allow for remote control and management. These systems can be installed in both residential and commercial settings, providing real-time data and insights into water consumption patterns. By tracking water usage and identifying potential issues such as leaks or abnormal usage, smart water systems help users take proactive measures to prevent water wastage, reduce utility bills, and ensure the efficient use of this precious resource.”

 

 

 

References:

 

How To Maintain Your Well Water System. Karuna Eberl. The Family Handyman. January 31, 2024. How To Maintain Your Well Water System (msn.com)

Homeowner’s Guide To Well Water Testing. Karuna Eberl. The Family Handyman. February 12, 2024. Homeowner’s Guide To Well Water Testing (msn.com)

Smart Water Systems: Preventing Leaks and Saving Money. Jessica Fritsch. AllTheThings.Best. August 30, 2024. Smart Water Systems: Preventing Leaks and Saving Money (msn.com)

Certified laboratory water testing for home and business. Tap Score. Water Test Kits By Certified Laboratories – SimpleLab Tap Score

Types of Water Softeners. Home Depot. Types of Water Softeners - The Home Depot

UV Water Purification Systems: NSF Class A and B. John Woodard. Fresh Water Systems. August 23, 2018. UV Water Purification Systems: NSF Class A and B – Fresh Water Systems

Private Water Wells and Private Water Systems. KnowYourH2O. Private Water Wells and Private Drinking Water Systems, Well Water, Unregulated

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